News - Merlot Musings
06 October 2008
Raining Medals in Eden Valley
There's no drought in Eden Valley. In fact, it’s raining medals!
Results from the International Wine Challenge London, May 2008
** IRVINE GRAND MERLOT 2005 ** GOLD MEDAL
** IRVINE GRAND MERLOT 2004 ** SILVER MEDAL
** IRVINE ZINFANDEL RESERVE 2005 ** SILVER MEDAL
** IRVINE “THE BARONESS” 2005 ** COMMENDATION
20 May 2008
Fabulous occurrence
We had quite an occasion in April when through the courtesy of Reid and Stephen of Kaesler Wines, two young Frenchmen called to visit. They were Jean Moueix and Casper, from the famous firm Ets JP Moueix, owners of Chateau Petrus.
The wines of Chateau Petrus have recognition as being “the World’s Best Merlot”, and so it was a very special pleasure to show a range of Grand Merlots in the tasting.
The Grand Merlots they found fascinating, not only with the style but also the fact that Petrus vineyards are much the same size as our own at Irvine.
1992 World’s Best in Switzerland, 1997
1997 New World’s Best Red Wine, Germany 2006
2002 The coolest vintage ever
2004 The current release
2005 The release in two year’s time
So quite a snapshot of Grand Merlot.
Then onto the commercial wines lead by “The Baroness”, Irvine Merlot, Merlot Cabernet Franc and Springhill Merlot, to give an appreciation of just what Irvine is doing.
Then just to fascinate (and frighten), the two 1998 Grand Merlots.
Why two? Well on the bottling day of the 1998 we had the usual super deluxe cork used but also had a few dozen put under screw cap as well.
This really fascinated the “pair from Petrus”, who after much deliberation still felt that they enjoyed the cork sealed wine more so than the screw cap sealed wine.
Very understandable in so much as very few people have ever had the opportunity to taste such premium quality wine under two different seals side by side. In fact, the wine tastes quite different one to the other in spite of being exactly the same wine in both bottles.
What then is the difference?
Firstly, there is the need to watch out for personal preference versus any perceived quality difference. There is no doubt that under cap the wine seems fruitier and fresher, both in palate and bouquet. However, personal preference now starts to take place.
Under cork we see the “expected maturation” in bouquet and palate with less fruit and perhaps more readily recognised acidity. Slightly more, not big differences, but still noticeable.
Thinking of cork as a plug from a tree and realising that cork then influences the taste, the realisation that what I had grown used to as “maturation” characters was mostly? Cork wood flavour, really did astound.
This comparison is even more easily seen in white wines, as you can guess.
So what seems to be a “slow down” in maturation and retention of fruit could be mostly cork flavour.
Once you get over the traditional approach to maturation the beauty of the fruit retention by the screw cap is most noticeable. However, it then becomes very much a personal preference indeed.
In summary then, it was great to meet a member of the Moueix family, for I have followed the name and the company ever since tasting Petrus for the first time in the late 1970s.
23 November 2007
BARONS AND CHILDREN. WINES FROM THE NEXT GENERATION.
Barossa wine fraternity Barons of the Barossa of which Jim is a member celebrated a new round of inductees at a gala dinner in the Barossa the other night. The theme of the evening was family where food prepared by Baron Maggie Beers’s daughters Saskia and Elli was served with wines made by Barons and their children our own Jim and Joanne Irvine included.
The Barons of the Barossa have some iconic names amongst their ranks that along with their children and the wines they have produced were the highlights of the dinner. Such luminaries as Peter Lehmann and his sons David (David Franz Wines) and Phillip who has recently gone to work at the winery bearing his fathers name. Colin Glaetzer creator of E & E Black Pepper Shiraz who has for some time been making wine under his own Glaetzer label and his son Ben, Stephen and Johann Henschke and the menu created by Saskia and Elli Beer. What a fantastic line up of Barossa talent.
Barons come from all walks of life – not just winemaking or viticulture but are recognised for their services to the Barossa community. Barons are also responsible for promoting the Barossa in all ways to protect the traditions and heritage of the Barossa.
The Irvine Wines presented on the night – just to make you jealous were:
- Sparkling Merlot served with Streaky Bay Oysters and Duck & Sherry Pate with melba toast. We try not to be too parochial here at Irvine Wines but Streaky Bay oysters from here in South Australia are surely the best.
- 2007 Albarino served with Ceviche of scallop with apple & radish salad & lime mayonnaise. South Australian squid salad with agresto sauce. Brandade of salt cod with asparagus spears and crostini. The Albarino is a fresh lively stunner. There is some out in the market mainly in restaurants in Melbourne but sadly we have none left.
- It was the favourite tipple after work here at Springhill but when we realised how popular it was we had to stop drinking it so that you could have some as well.
- 2005 Zinfandel Reserve. Joanne’s pet project Zinfandel was accompanied by Rabbit & pistachio terrine with pear chutney and mizuna. Pigeon salad with thyme, juniper and roasted garlic. Mushroom and prosciutto tartlet. Such as fantastic match. Joanne is thrilled by the 2005 vintage and in her words she reckons she has ‘nailed it with this one’. Get some soon.
- The softness of fruit and the silkyness of the palate of the 2002 Baroness worked exceptionally well with braised Coorong angus beef crepinette with rare roasted wagyu fillet and bone marrow sauce.
The dinner continued on with more great food and wine but that was it for the Irvine wines. The last wine I have to tell you about is the 1998 Peter Lehmann Shiraz Vintage Port. What a way to end the night!
We are always keen to see and try what goes well with our wines so if you have a particular recipe that matches well with Irvine wines please let us know and we will love to post it on the website. Send it to jonathan@irvinewines.com.au
30 August 2007
NEWS FLASH………
2002 Grand Merlot has now been released.
Yes the long awaited release of this great wine from the great 2002 vintage has now happened. Those on our mailing list will have received an exclusive pre release offer and now it is available in the stores. Ask your favourite bottle shop manager to order some in as this vintage of the Grand Merlot is very very good. Please contact Jonathan on (08) 8564 1110 or jonathan@irvinewines.com.au if you have trouble sourcing the wine or indeed any of the Irvine range and he will point you in the right direction.
Luscious. That’s the best way to describe this latest release and as with all Grand Merlot you should decant this wine for at least 3 - 4 hours before drinking. Save some for your cellar as the potential for aging is enormous. We recommend that the best drinking will be from 2010 onwards.
The best way to experience this wine is to get yourself some, decant the wine and then sit back and experience a great Merlot because this wine is an experience, one that I’m sure you will enjoy.
29 August 2007
THE LAP OF LUXURY IN THE BAROSSA
Barossa is indeed fortunate to have a very real “gem” in its crown in the form of The Louise, our only 5 star luxury retreat.
Set amongst the vineyards with commanding views in all directions, you can really sink into a lifestyle happening of true elegance.
If this sounds all too much, then you had better be prepared for Mark McNamara and “Appellation” – South Australia’s Best Regional Restaurant for as much as “The Louise” is truly stunning then so is this restaurant.
It is not enough just to understand excellence you really need to experience it. Exclusive! Yes. Fantastic! Yes and the sheer professionalism is apparent the moment you turn into the drive.
Why then do we talk about “The Louise” and “Appellation”? Simply we, at Irvine Wines believe we too understand excellence and exhibit that by association with the very best of Barossa, or for that matter the best of anywhere, with our wines.
Making “The Louise” and “Appellation” your home when visiting the Barossa and Eden Valley assures you and us that the experience will be truly a grand one.
Irvine Wines is proud to supply wines to “Appellation”.
The Louise – Contact Telephone (08) 8562 2722 Email stay@thelouise.com.au
Appellation – Contact Telephone (08) 8563 4144 Email dine@appellation.com.au
28 August 2007
INNOVATION AT TANUNDA CELLARS
Tanunda Cellars, located in Murray Street, Tanunda, Barossa Valley, has installed two wonderful tasting machines. No, the machines don’t do the tasting but make the tasting a real adventure, particularly showing as they do a range of the smaller winemakers’ wines.
Each machine has six bottles available for tasting, six red and six white. The machines are connected to a gas system which is truly excellent in so much that it keeps the samples beautifully fresh for quite some time, so assuring the tasters of a quality experience.
The gas used in covering the wines is indeed argon, one of the more popular gases used in many, many wineries for exactly the same purpose of keeping their wine in tank as fresh as possible.
The system works by buying a card at the front counter, and then by self – selection of the particular wines you might wish to taste. Depending on the size of the taste required, so the cost is adjusted.
So Irvine Wines encourages visitors to Barossa to try this fantastic new approach to wine enjoyment. Apart form the enjoyment of course is the discovery factor of wines that you may not have heard of ever before, and when you think there is now some 84 wineries of all sizes in the Barossa District, you can see how easy it is not to know them all.
So Irvine Wines congratulates Chris Atkins, who took the interest to set up this fascinating tasting system – there is nothing quite like trying before you buy, especially when you have “discovered” a brand new wine.
06 April 2007
Vintage Update - in fact updated - past tense its finished!!!
Doom & Gloom!
2007 vintage was an interesting one to say the least. Mother Nature was sorting things out in her own wise way. For the last few years the wine industry has been bemoaning over supply and low prices not only for grapes but also for finished wines that have been sitting on the bulk wine market for what seems like ages to those paying the storage bills.
Drought has been the talk of the entire nation with even the city folk feeling the effects on their own little patch of Australia and urban Australia having a new found empathy with those of us on the land. Its even much talked about in government circles. As to their response well this is perhaps this is not the venue for that!
Eden Valley this valley of Eden was not spared because of its name. Very low with an big emphasis on both the very and the low the rainfall that was had over the winter had many of the old timers of the valley confirming what all the press were saying that the drought was here and it was severe. Add to that very low temperatures and the lack of cloud causing bad frosts in November saw many vignerons loose huge percentages of their overall crop with some varieties being completely wiped out. The headlines of the local paper screamed of the magnitude of the problem. At every wine industry gathering, the pub, the supermarket there were stories of loss.
As a black frost many frost fans failed to do their job only adding to the catastrophe.
Philosophical Resilience
With so much at stake and having no choice but to deal with what Mother Nature has metered out to them the good folk of the Barossa are extremely resilient and wonderfully philosophical about what the future will hold. Such is the belief in what they have achieved in the past what they are doing now despite the set backs and how optimistic they are about the future one can only be inspired by this and carry on with greater fortitude and resolve to grow better grapes and produce better wine. A philosophy long held by Irvine Wines but given further impetus by the circumstances we now find ourselves in.
There is always a silver lining.
Vintage was short and sharp to say the least lasting for March – that’s it just March 1st to March 30th done and dusted. Starting with the Pinot Gris and ending with Zinfandel as is normally the case but not quite in such a condensed period. Tonnages were down being on average only a third of normal. That was the situation at Springhill, the property has only bore water to draw on and we ran out. Water even had to be purchased for the house.
With a short vintage there was time to party. The Barossa Vintage Festival celebrated its 60th year this year and because vintage was so very short winemakers, cellar hands growers and all those usually involved in vintage had the opportunity to enjoy Easter and party through the Vintage Festival. And what a festival it was. The photo’s here tell the story. Highly respected winemakers on the Eden Valley float. Hmmmmm! Let me know your comments at jonathan@irvinewines.com.au the best caption gets something exciting.
Don’t Despair.
There were pleasant surprises all round when Joanne brought in the wines from the 07 vintage. All now bedded down for the winter out of the rain we hope we have. All are through malolactic fermentation and despite low tonnages the wines are looking really good. We were looking at the prospect of there not being a 2007 vintage of the Grand Merlot and while Jim will never make compromises on this wine the future looks bright.
Another very bright note from the 2007 vintage is the new product for Irvine Wines, 2007 Albarino. A wonderful fresh lively white now in bottle with pear and pineapple characters and a lively fresh finish. Somewhat like Sauvignon Blanc but with more flavour. A great wine that the marketing team are thoroughly assessing on a daily basis! Order some soon so as to not miss out as only 300 cases were produced.
So for winter we attend the wines look to the skies for both inspiration and precipitation both of which we are very confident of getting in buckets. That philosophical nature of those on the land, namely us, persists and the future will be good with some great Irvine wines to drink who could argue.
Stay Tuned.
Coming soon to you will be the 2002 Grand Merlot. Much has been written about his great vintage and the Grand Merlot qualifies all these comments and will be released very soon. Stay tuned.
20 December 2006
CHECK YOUR CELLAR - 1997 Grand Merlot wins one of Germany’s top wine awards
Mundus, Germany’s most important wine competition and the largest tasting under the direction of the OIV worldwide, has given one of its highest accolades to Irvine Wines. More than 4,400 entries from 33 countries were submitted to the international jury.
This is a tremendous win, not just for Irvine bit for the Barossa, Eden Valley in particular, and for Australia. Being awarded “World's Best Overseas Dry Red” shows that Barossa has a world class Merlot that can hold its own with Shiraz and others.
So now is the time for you to take a look in the dark corners of the cellar and see if there is a 1997 Irvine Grand Merlot in your cellar and taste what a world’s best dry red is like. Let us know your thoughts about the wine and we will post your tasting notes on the website.
A tip from Jim, decant the wine and allow at least 3 hours before drinking.
15 December 2006
Top 100 Baroness
That aristocrat of wines, Irvine Baroness, is once again in esteemed company after being included in the Sydney International Wine Competition Top 100.
Sydney International Wine Competition is the only major international wine competition to judge its finalists alongside appropriate food. The blend in the Baroness is Merlot (of course as Irvine’s are premium Merlot makers) Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon is a gentle blend which certainly does suit food.
To secure your share of this Top 100 wine the 2002 Baroness please contact Jonathan at jonathan@irvinewines.com.au and you can be drinking this great food wine soon. For more information about this interesting competition look at the website of Sydney International Wine Competition at www.top100wines.com
07 September 2006
BEST RED WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR INTERNATIONAL WINE CHALLENGE 2006
Following on from the excitement of the winning of the Best Zinfandel Trophy in the International Wine Challenge, Joanne Irvine has been awarded the best "Red Winemaker of the Year" at the awards dinner held at Londons Grosvenor House Hotel. We were advised that Jo was in the running for this great honour but could only hope for the best result. Proud to be awarded the trophy for World's Best Zinfandel she was ecstactic to receive this additional accolade.
No doubt Joanne's experience in the USA wineries has played a large part in winning the International Zinfandel Trophy, for it was this work in California that set her on the Zinfandel path.
While the variety is rare in Australia (with only about a dozen Zinfandel makers), Zinfandel is to USA what Shiraz is to Australia.
Being awarded "Red Winemaker of the Year" comes out of this Zinfandel success when combined with the other awards to Irvine Wines at this year's Wine Challenge:
Irvine Zinfandel Reserve 2003 Gold Medal and Trophy
Irvine The Baroness 2002 Silver Medal
Irvine Merlot 2004 Bronze Medal
Irvine Grand Merlot 2002 Bronze Medal
Irvine Merlot Cabernet Franc 2002 Seal of Approval
Joanne has been making these wines for quite some years now for Irvine Wines while guiding her Wine Wise consulting company.
Taken all round then, these outstanding results are great - great for Barossa, great for South Australia, great for Jianne and Irvine Wines.
Once again well done Jo.
07 March 2006
2003 Zinfandel Awarded World's Best
There were smiles all round at Springhill none more so than on Joanne's face as the news came through that her 2003 Zinfandel Reserve was awarded the trophy for the best Zinfandel at the 2006 International Wine Challenge in London. This highly regarded wine competition has entrants from all over the world and the Eden Valley Zinfandel was judged the best. California is considered the place for Zinfandels and this wine coming from a small patch on the Springhill property is considered all the more special because it is now the second wine to receive World's Best for wines coming from the Springhill vineyard following on from the Grand Merlot which has won gold in the same competition.
The wine, still on current release but running out quickly, was a tough one to make and Jo was not too keen to show the wine. Winemakers are sometimes hyper critical of their own wines and Jo is her own harshest critic. It was entered anyway and the results speak for themselves.
International judges of another wine competition in London the Decanter World Wine Awards also gave it a gold which ups the tally on this wine to one World's Best Trophy plus two Golds and a Silver.
So well done Jo and we look forward to the 2004 release later this year.
01 November 2005
Clones and Groans
You have no doubt heard or read about the recent discussions and various points of view on the clones of Merlot currently available. Here at Irvine vineyards we currently have five clones in the ground, D3V14, D3V5, D3V7, Q45-14 and 8R. The last two are yet to come into bearing, but should hit the wire this growing season, so in about six years time we will have enough fruit to distinguish the difference.
Of these we find in our Springhill vineyard that D3V7 is quite remarkably different, different in so much that it shows all the lovely plummy varietal characters expected of Merlot at a much lower baume - around 12.5 to 13. In turn, the depth of plumminess and raspberry characters from this clone are quite outstanding and much deeper than any other we have ever tasted. 2006 will be the third season that we have had fruit, and I fully expect this V7 fruit to go into Grand Merlot, something which I never thought would be possible from five year old vines.
The V5 is very much like a V14, which has been our "work horse" for many, many years.
The current rave-on about D3V14 being a poor clone would appear to be so much rubbish in our own instance, so I guess it is a matter of site selection, climatic conditions and winemaker understanding that needs to be applied to V14 before it should be condemned. For once again in May this year our Grand Merlot has again achieved gold medal status in the International Wine Challenge, and this is V14, as was the World's Best Merlot in 1992, 1988 and runner-up so many times in international competitions. This is not to say we are smart at all, what it really means is that Merlot D3V14 seems to be very happy in Eden Valley.
To continually mix with the top 20 world's Merlots is a thrill indeed, but to have done it over so many years certainly shows, in my mind at least, that there can't be much wrong with that particular clone, but more likely it is just not understood in other places. So please take care when you see some derogatory remarks about this old work horse.
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