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News - Merlot Musings

11 January 2004

Winestate Merlot Awards Presentation

In being asked to make a presentation of the Merlot Trophy for Winestate Awards recently in Sydney, I was asked the question: "Many consumers have an image that Merlot is soft and round, yet the reality is that Merlots are often green and hard. Is this correct in your opinion?"

This question in turn was somewhat alarming in itself, for indeed I must agree as to the current situation. I am sure that this will not be so for much longer, especially when winemakers, wine writers and wine judges have the time to truly understand the wonders of excellent Merlot.

My reply comes from some 24 years of Merlot experience in making, marketing and styling Merlots at all quality and price levels.

The understanding in Australia of just what makes a great, or very good, Merlot is yet to be fully realised for indeed I firmly believe that few, if any, winemakers are treating Merlot as seriously as they should.

In this instance the consumers are right and the winemakers/wine critics/ wine writers/wine show judges are wrong. Merlot must be treated with more simpatico before we see consistently good to great Merlots at all levels.

Recent wine show tastings have been most disappointing, not only in the entries offered but also in the judging missing the style altogether - so many weedy, extractive, over-worked wines are getting awards while truly stylish varietal Merlots are overlooked purely because they have the richness, fruitiness and seamless texture that Merlot demands.

My other concern is the point that happens too often wherein we see people appointed to judge Merlot who have never or rarely made Merlot or only have a passing acquaintance with the lesser styles - how can they really know!

I might add that wine show conditions and demands do no favours for Merlot - it's almost like Pinot Noir about 20 years ago: badly made, badly judged; and little understanding of the style itself.

Merlot is now 12% of the red grape crop in Australia with 93,000 tonnes, passing Pinot by 3½ times, passing Grenache by 4½ times, passing Petit Verdot by 7½ times in total tonnage in the 2003 vintage. In France, Merlot is the most widely planted red variety.

I therefore suggest that it is more than time for Australian wine companies to take a more serious approach to the making of fine Merlots and so satisfy the whole range of consumers.

My prediction is that in 10 year's time Merlot tonnage will pass Cabernet tonnage and within 20 years Merlot will challenge Shiraz - I just hope to live long enough to see this.

Fortunately Winestate is on the consumers' side and so helps immensely to reward the readers of the magazine, leading them into the better examples of Merlot.

As such then consumers should continue to search for Merlots that are full of plummy, raspberry flavours, together with richness and abundant, deep, soft tannins. Especially when we see the alcohol level around 14% or better. For the most part it is only at this level of ripeness that the better Merlot characteristics are shown quite obviously.

There is no reason why any Merlot consumer should expect anything less than a most enjoyable experience from one of the world's classic varieties. I can only suggest that you keep tasting and tasting and tasting, and so find the Merlot that suits your particular palate. They are most rewarding, and certainly deserve the highest quality grading possible.

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